Browse Category by Classic Style
Bridal Heirlooms, Classic Style, Forever Classic, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Smocking, Uncategorized

Smocked Bridal Purse- Construction and Attaching the Frame

I’m back!  Wedding is done, and new grandson has been sufficiently cuddled for now. As promised, I’m going to explain the remaining steps for the Smocked Bridal purse I made.

To refresh your memory, I talk about the previous steps here and here.  I’ve been tinkering with this project for a while and I’m pleased with the outcome, however, I have some tweaking to do for the next one I make.  I used the Upstyle pattern from Esty, found here.  Their frames are very high quality and the pattern is easy to make.  However, I don’t care for the loose sides that will fold in unevenly, making the frame look off-center, as in the photo above.  That’s a tweak for another day.

In my second post about the purse, I described using a stay to stabilize the pleats and support the embroidery.  It was much easier to do the silk ribbon embroidery this way because all of the ribbons and floss were actually secured to the back of the stay instead of the pleats.  Also, the pleats didn’t shift around.  They stayed in position which made consistent stitches much easier to make.

 

Silk Ribbon Embroidered Smocking

 

I blocked the smocking to the size of the frame and then steamed the pleats.  When the smocking was dry and cool, I secured the stay to the top of the smocking.  I stitched 3/8″ from the top cable row, then I trimmed the top to 1/2″ from the cable row to the cut edge.

 

 

Next, I needed to control the fullness of the gathers along the bottom of the pattern piece.  The original pattern instructions place the pattern piece on the fold of the fabric, but there is also an option for one way designs and I used that.  Add 1/2″ seam allowance along the bottom of the pattern piece and cut two.  I measured the distance from the top of the pattern piece and marked the same distance from the top of my smocked piece.  Then I stitched 3 rows of gathering stitches and distributed the gathers until I was satisfied.

 

 

The gathers were stitched to the stay along the bottom seam.

 

 

Then the stay is attached at the sides along the seam line.  I also stitched around the cutting line to control the gathers in the seam allowance.  Then I trimmed just outside the cutting line stitching.

 

 

 

I stitched the back of the purse to the front along the bottom seam.

 

 

I pressed the seam open.  Here you can see where all the embroidery threads have been secured to the stay instead of the pleats.

 

 

Here is the fusible fleece being attached to the wrong side of the purse.  I only fused the fleece to the back of the purse and to the back of the smocking.  I DID NOT fuse the bottom gathers or the area of the silk ribbon embroidery.  I didn’t want to crush the embroidery through the fusing process and I didn’t want to crease the gathers.  I did fuse along the sides where the fabric is flat.

 

 

Here is the purse all assembled.  The lining is interfaced and there is also a Peltex inner structure.  I forgot to take pictures of the frame being attached, but the instructions included in the pattern are very good.  I was skeptical about a glued frame but it seemed to be very solid.  I was pleasantly shocked.

 

 

I think the smocking adapted to this pattern very well.  I have to work out a better design for the sides so I think I’ll dig out my mother in law’s vintage bags and do some research.

 

 

I also forgot to take a final picture in good light.  The lighting in the church wasn’t very good, but I think it’s a pretty picture anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, SAGA, Smocking

An Updated Smocked Bonnet

Recently my good friend, Lisa Hawkes, owner of Pink Hollybush Designs, asked me to test a new bonnet pattern for her.  I had such a good time completing this project.  It was quick, easy to put together, and absolutely adorable!  It’s the perfect project if you want to learn to smock.  She includes a detailed stitch glossary with the pattern that will help any beginning smocker.

 

 

Pink Hollybush Designs Smocked Bonnet

 

 

She starts with the traditional smocked band framing the face and adds an updated touch at the back by enclosing it with a lined inset.  This provides a more tailored look in the back while offering an updated, more modern look for babies.  This way grandmas can still smock away, and mommas who don’t like the old-fashioned bonnets can be happy.  The best of both worlds.

 

 

Pink Hollybush Designs Smocked Bonnet

 

 

Traditional smocked bonnets are usually made of batiste, which could be a little too lightweight for colder northern climates.  Lisa has addressed those issues with this new pattern.  It can be made from the cutest cotton, or poly cotton prints.  It can be made with a more casual look, perfect with a sunsuit.  It can also be made with a heavier fabric for those cooler days here up north.  It’s such a versatile design, you can use it with a wide variety of fabrics and prints.  This is definitely going into my Grandmother’s Hope Chest.

 

 

18 inch doll, 18 inch doll clothes, Classic Style, Construction, Doll Clothes, Forever Classic, New Pattern, Quick Projects, SAGA, Sewing Techniques

The Scalloped Belt Dress

My first pattern is finally released today.  It is the Scalloped Belt Dress, designed for the 18 inch dolls.  It has classic styling suitable for the 40s, 50s, or 60s time periods from the American girls.  It has short puffed sleeves, a peter pan collar and an attached belt with scalloped details.  Piping is optional and should be omitted for beginner sewists for best results.  It fastens in the back with hook and loop tape and the bodice is fully lined, which encloses the armhole seams for added strength.  Here are a few variations for inspiration:

 

 

 

Please give it a try and let me know your thoughts and suggestions! I would love to hear from you and if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to contact me.  I can be reached by email at smockermom@littleheirloomangels.com and smockermom319@gmail.com.  You can also send a message through my Facebook page, or through the Craftsy or Etsy platforms.  I am here to help if there’s something you are struggling with.  I really have a passion for sewing and I want to encourage the next generation of sewists by sharing my knowledge.