Browse Category by Sewing Techniques
Forever Classic, Heirloom Sewing, Quick Projects, Sewing Techniques, Uncategorized

New Fabrics Just Stocked!

Hi Everyone.  I just uploaded a lot of new fabrics to my Etsy Shop.  As always, I’m happy to send out free samples, just ask!  When you see these fabrics in person, they will spark your creativity.

www.littleheirloomangels.etsy.com

Satin Pique- Cream, Lavender, and Navy

 

 

 

 

 

100% Egyptian Cotton Superfine Twill, Spill Resistant

This would be perfect for children’s clothing.  It has a wonderful sheen and resists stains.  Navy, Red, White, and Lavender.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spechler Vogel Cotton Linen Batiste, 100% Organic Cotton. W, and Navyite, Cream, Lavender Fancies, Aqua Fancies, Pink, Baby Blue

 

Four new colors of Imperial Batiste

 

 

Perfect for spring!  Stop by and check them out.

 

 

 

Classic Style, Construction, Embroidery, Forever Classic, Heirloom Sewing, SAGA, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery

Variations on Big Sister Pamela Pattern

I wanted to share my granddaughter’s Christening Gown.

 

I made it using my Big Sister Pamela pattern.  Even though it is featured as a smocked yoke dress, it can be transformed into any basic yoke dress with a few tweaks.

I wanted to make an heirloom style gown without smocking.  It was inspired by a scrap of hand embroidery I had trimmed off of Carol’s First Communion Dress.  I had just enough to fit into a yoke so Big Sister Pamela fit the bill perfectly.  This was also my first project using Nelona.  What a delight it is to work with.  It’s just so gorgeous and easy to sew and press.

First, I traced off the Yoke pattern piece and the Blocking Guide for the smocking.  I overlapped the seam allowances across the front and traced off a whole bodice piece.  Now, I had a template for laying out my  heirloom laces.  I added the V shape in the center to feature more of the embroidered piece and add some visual interest.

 

The hardest part was mitering the entredeux into the V shape.  Next time, I will just draw a separate template for the shaped seam line and hand stitch the entredeux pieces together first.  I think it would be easier to manage.

Next, the sleeves were finished with lace insertion and the hemstitch on my sewing machine. Gathered lace and entredeux are used for the armband.

 

The next big decision was concerning the skirt treatment.  I knew Carol wouldn’t want a huge skirt, so I chose a 36″ width.  I also liked that the number is divisible by 3 for the Trinity.  Then I calculated the lengths I would need for the lace band and stitched the laces together.  The ruffle is double the width of the skirt with lace insertion and pintucks on each side, with lace edging along the bottom.  I added the V shape in the middle and added seam allowances for stitching to the entredeux.

 

I also wanted to embroider a cross for the skirt and coordinate it with the embroidery on the yoke.  I tried to shadow embroider the cross but it was too large and I couldn’t get it to look nice.  So, then I tried a chain stitch.  My dear friend Lori suggested silk floss and my goodness, it was lovely to work with.  Then I used some floche for the vines and I even found some of the same white silk ribbon that I used on the original dress!  Same patina to match the roses on the yoke.  Sometimes it pays to not throw things away! LOL.   A lace insertion oval and it was complete.

 

I’m pleased with how it turned out even though my heirloom sewing skills are a little rusty.  It took almost 2 months to complete, which includes all the mistakes and Plan Bs, but it was still fun.  I think I’ll submit it to Show and Share when I go to the SAGA convention next month.

 

Happy Stitching!

 

 

 

Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, New Pattern, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Smocking

New Pattern!

Big Sister Pamela has been released and can be purchased here or at my Etsy shop.  I had a few requests to release the Baby Pamela dress in bigger sizes and I hope you enjoy making it.

 

 

The pattern includes sizes Newborn up to 9-12 Months and a simple smocking plate for new smockers.  It also includes my snap front diaper cover, which has been very popular.  It makes diaper changes so much easier!

 

A bias neckband is a quick technique and the sleeves ares smocked with baby waves for comfort and elasticity.

 

 

Perfect for spring time projects and Easter outfits.  Happy stitching!

Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques

Out Of My Head And On The Baby

I’m a little late in posting this, certain life events came up and I just haven’t been up to posting.  I can’t believe it’s been since May when I was trying to work out a procedure for my grandson’s baptism outfit.

Well, it’s finally out of my head and on the baby!  Here he is, sitting on Grandpa’s lap.  I tried my hardest to get him to sit on the sofa alone, but he played surfboard and just wouldn’t have it.  He was only happy on Grandpa’s lap.

 

 

All of the mental gymnastics were worth it.  My daughter loved the outfit and she was very happy.  Sammy was comfortable and happy.  He didn’t even cry when the priest poured the water on his head.

Here are the details:

This is the embroidery in the center.  I made the hemstitched tucks on either side.  a tutorial will be coming to explain the steps.  I pinstitched the yoke by hand.

The fabric here is linen and the rest of the bubble is a fine shirting fabric with a herringbone pattern.

 

I made a peter pan collar with faggoting.

And here is the bubble with the cap:

It certainly is a satisfying feeling to finally get it out of my head!

 

Bishop Construction, Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques

New Feature- Tutorials!

I’m finishing up my first pattern testing and it has been an amazing experience.  I’ve gotten some valuable feedback and I had the opportunity to work with some talented testers.  Thank you all for joining!  I’ll be posting the photos very soon, after I’ve finished all the revisions to the pattern.

One of the best suggestions I received was to post tutorials on the blog here for beginners who might not be familiar with heirloom sewing techniques.  I thought it was a great idea.  Thank you Pam!  I have a Tutorials page now with a link at the top of the Home page.

My first tutorial shows how to make piping for heirloom garments.  Click here.  It’s a basic feature for smocked dresses and classic children’s clothing.   It supports the smocking on yoke dresses and inserts.  It can be used as trim on a cuff, or around a peter pan collar.  But’s it’s also a lesson that isn’t taught in most basic sewing classes.  It’s simple, doesn’t cost a lot of money and adds such an elegant touch.

In the next few weeks, I’ll be posting other tutorials on topics such as an easy way to make a continuous bound placket and binding a neckline.  More topics will be posted as I cover different techniques in future patterns.

 

I hope you enjoy them!

Bridal Heirlooms, Classic Style, Forever Classic, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Smocking, Uncategorized

Smocked Bridal Purse- Construction and Attaching the Frame

I’m back!  Wedding is done, and new grandson has been sufficiently cuddled for now. As promised, I’m going to explain the remaining steps for the Smocked Bridal purse I made.

To refresh your memory, I talk about the previous steps here and here.  I’ve been tinkering with this project for a while and I’m pleased with the outcome, however, I have some tweaking to do for the next one I make.  I used the Upstyle pattern from Esty, found here.  Their frames are very high quality and the pattern is easy to make.  However, I don’t care for the loose sides that will fold in unevenly, making the frame look off-center, as in the photo above.  That’s a tweak for another day.

In my second post about the purse, I described using a stay to stabilize the pleats and support the embroidery.  It was much easier to do the silk ribbon embroidery this way because all of the ribbons and floss were actually secured to the back of the stay instead of the pleats.  Also, the pleats didn’t shift around.  They stayed in position which made consistent stitches much easier to make.

 

Silk Ribbon Embroidered Smocking

 

I blocked the smocking to the size of the frame and then steamed the pleats.  When the smocking was dry and cool, I secured the stay to the top of the smocking.  I stitched 3/8″ from the top cable row, then I trimmed the top to 1/2″ from the cable row to the cut edge.

 

 

Next, I needed to control the fullness of the gathers along the bottom of the pattern piece.  The original pattern instructions place the pattern piece on the fold of the fabric, but there is also an option for one way designs and I used that.  Add 1/2″ seam allowance along the bottom of the pattern piece and cut two.  I measured the distance from the top of the pattern piece and marked the same distance from the top of my smocked piece.  Then I stitched 3 rows of gathering stitches and distributed the gathers until I was satisfied.

 

 

The gathers were stitched to the stay along the bottom seam.

 

 

Then the stay is attached at the sides along the seam line.  I also stitched around the cutting line to control the gathers in the seam allowance.  Then I trimmed just outside the cutting line stitching.

 

 

 

I stitched the back of the purse to the front along the bottom seam.

 

 

I pressed the seam open.  Here you can see where all the embroidery threads have been secured to the stay instead of the pleats.

 

 

Here is the fusible fleece being attached to the wrong side of the purse.  I only fused the fleece to the back of the purse and to the back of the smocking.  I DID NOT fuse the bottom gathers or the area of the silk ribbon embroidery.  I didn’t want to crush the embroidery through the fusing process and I didn’t want to crease the gathers.  I did fuse along the sides where the fabric is flat.

 

 

Here is the purse all assembled.  The lining is interfaced and there is also a Peltex inner structure.  I forgot to take pictures of the frame being attached, but the instructions included in the pattern are very good.  I was skeptical about a glued frame but it seemed to be very solid.  I was pleasantly shocked.

 

 

I think the smocking adapted to this pattern very well.  I have to work out a better design for the sides so I think I’ll dig out my mother in law’s vintage bags and do some research.

 

 

I also forgot to take a final picture in good light.  The lighting in the church wasn’t very good, but I think it’s a pretty picture anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bridal Heirlooms, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques, Uncategorized

Bridal Party Shirts!

I’m back from a little hiatus and I just wanted to share the shirts that Esther Conrad Grant embroidered for my daughter’s wedding!  She is the owner of Tiger Swallow Tales Children’s Boutique and she also has a stunning dress in the latest issue of Classic Sewing Magazine that you must read about.

Here is the link to her shop on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/tigerswallowtales/

She also has a fantastic blog that you should check out: http://www.tigerswallowtales.com/

My daughter, Rose, found a picture on Pinterest using monogrammed flannel shirts for the bridal party and she had her heart set on doing a similar picture for her wedding.  The wedding is in November and she wanted something a little cozier than little robes for the bridal party.  The picture she wants to use shows the bridal party lined up with their backs to the camera, wearing monogrammed flannel shirts.  Esther was wonderful and she went above and beyond to make Rose’s dream come true.  Esther found the perfect font, in the perfect size and created these beautiful shirts that the bridesmaids can wear when they do their hair and makeup.  She has such an amazing talent and Rose will be ecstatic when she sees them! ❤️❤️❤️  

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party Shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party Shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party Shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party Shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

The shirts are stunning thanks to Esther’s meticulous attention to detail.  I just can’t thank her enough!  I also want to thank her for kindly allowing me to post her pictures from her Facebook page.

I’ve been away a little too long and I will be posting more soon.  I have updates from convention and a SAGA meet up at Kent State to share, along with my entry from the Design Show.  I was working on that, then my grandson decided to come 3 weeks early and totally threw off my sewing schedule! I thought I would have a whole month after convention to make him a coming home outfit, but he clearly had different plans!  Now things have settled down and I can get back to my Bridal purse and my Baby Bishop pattern not to mention my next pleating lesson.

It’s been hectic!

Here is the original post with the shirts on Esther’s Facebook page:

Warm November Wedding by Tiger Swallow Tales

18 inch doll, 18 inch doll clothes, Classic Style, Construction, Doll Clothes, Forever Classic, New Pattern, Quick Projects, SAGA, Sewing Techniques

The Scalloped Belt Dress

My first pattern is finally released today.  It is the Scalloped Belt Dress, designed for the 18 inch dolls.  It has classic styling suitable for the 40s, 50s, or 60s time periods from the American girls.  It has short puffed sleeves, a peter pan collar and an attached belt with scalloped details.  Piping is optional and should be omitted for beginner sewists for best results.  It fastens in the back with hook and loop tape and the bodice is fully lined, which encloses the armhole seams for added strength.  Here are a few variations for inspiration:

 

 

 

Please give it a try and let me know your thoughts and suggestions! I would love to hear from you and if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to contact me.  I can be reached by email at smockermom@littleheirloomangels.com and smockermom319@gmail.com.  You can also send a message through my Facebook page, or through the Craftsy or Etsy platforms.  I am here to help if there’s something you are struggling with.  I really have a passion for sewing and I want to encourage the next generation of sewists by sharing my knowledge.

Construction, Quick Projects, SAGA, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Smock Alongs, Smocking

One of the Perks of SAGA Membership: Smock Alongs!

One of the nicest perks of my membership in the Smocking Arts Guild is the SAGA Smock Along page on Facebook.  Various projects are posted that feature different skills.  We are given a supply list and we’re allowed to choose our own fabrics and color combinations.  Each week is a different lesson and we post our progress to the group as we go along. The variety of fabrics and colors used is so inspiring.  If someone is struggling with a step, we all help and offer advice.  It is a great way to build your skill set and it can encourage you to think outside your sewing box to explore new ideas.

Even though the projects are called Smock Alongs, they can feature any embroidery technique.  The last one I participated in was an adorable Silk Ribbon Embroidery Tissue Case.  It’s designed by Wanda DeWitt, who does beautiful silk ribbon work.  She is a great teacher and her instructions make it so easy to get the best results.  This little tissue case was such a quick project to do and yet it looks like it took hours.  It’s the perfect gift to use scraps, or when you need a last minute present.

 

 

Some of the Smock Alongs are for members only, and some are open to the general public.  Membership is pro-rated after July 1st until the end of the year, so now would be a good time to join.  Check us out.  We would love to get to know you and share our love of smocking and embroidery.

Construction, Doll Clothes, New Pattern, Sewing Techniques

Finishing Touches

I’ve been working on the final touches of my first pattern and it’s really cute.  It’s a dress for the 18″ dolls and it will be available for purchase through Etsy, Craftsy, and my website here.   I also have a Facebook page where I will post any updates.  Please visit and like the page to be notified of the pattern launch.  Here’s the link:

https://www.facebook.com/littleheirloomangels/

 

I designed the first version of this dress for my SAGA chapter’s fundraiser, Doll’s Day Out.  Every year the Mercer Museum in Doylestown, PA has a fundraiser for kids and their favorite dolls.  There is a tea party and various other activities.  My Smocking Arts Guild chapter, Keystone Smockers, buys a doll and we all contribute items to build a complete wardrobe for it.  We raffle off the complete set to raise money for our chapter activities.

 

 

The Scalloped Belt Dress features short sleeves and an attached scalloped belt.  The bodice is fully lined and the armhole seams are completely enclosed for strength.  That is the area that takes the most abuse when children are forcing those little doll arms through the sleeve!  It’s a quick project and can also be used for beginners if you skip the piping.

Here is a peek at another version in progress.  This one is just one last test to make sure everything is accurate before I finalize the file.

 

The launch should be announced in a week or two.  My next pattern scheduled for release will be a front button bishop top and diaper cover for preemies through 6 months.  It is the perfect Take Me Home outfit for the new arrival in anyone’s family.