Construction, Sewing Techniques

Sewing Fundamentals- Stay Stitching

By | On September 20,26 | 0 Comment

THREE GRAINS OF SEWING

There are three different grains in a piece of fabric and each one has different properties.

The Lengthwise Grain runs parallel to the selvedge and is the most sturdy and has the least amount of “give” when pulled.  These are the threads that are held on the loom and kept taught during the weaving process.  This grain is used to keep the garment hanging straight so it doesn’t twist on the body.

The Crosswise Grain runs perpendicular to the selvedge and has some amount of “give” when pulled.  These are the threads that are wrapped on the shuttle and passed back and forth on the loom.  This grain is placed so that the threads go around the body.  Since there is a little “give”, it is more comfortable as the body moves in the garment.

The Bias Grain runs diagonally to the selvedge at a 45 degree angle.  It has the most “give” when pulled because the threads are not held in a stable position like the lengthwise or crosswise grain.  It can be pressed into curves and is very useful for curved bindings and bias tape.  However, sometimes the bias can be a problem.

 

WHAT IS STAY STITCHING AND WHY DO WE NEED IT

Sewing a pattern involves working with many bias edges.  Bias edges stretch with handling, and the process of assembling these pieces can mean lots of handling.  We don’t want these edges to stretch because necklines will gape, collars and facings won’t fit and the overall appearance of the garment won’t be pleasing.  Stay stitching will prevent this stretching by keeping the fibers in place.  The pattern piece will maintain the original size and shape.

Some examples of bias edges that benefit from stay stitching include the neckline, the shoulder seam, waistline, and the armholes.  Even princess seams on a bodice have some bias and need stabilization.

Sleeve caps are another bias edge.  Here, the bias is controlled with the gathering/ease stitching used to insert the sleeve into the armhole.

HOW TO DO STAY STITCHING

Set your machine to a 3.0 stitch length.  If your machine has needle positions, move it one click to the right, putting the stay stitiching just inside the seam allowance.

Always start from the highest point of the seam and stitch down to the lowest.  Stitch each piece separately.

BODICE STAY STITCHING

For the neck, start at the shoulder and stitch around to the center front.  Stop and flip the neckline over to the other side.  This means one half is stitched on the right side and the other half is stitched on the wrong side.  Start at the other shoulder and stitch around to the center front, meeting at your previous stitching.

Since shoulder seams slope downwards, start at the neck edge and stitch out to the armscye edge.  Flip the fabric as you did for the neck and stitch the other shoulder.

Armscye stay stitching likewise starts at the shoulder and is stitched around to the side seam.  Flip the fabric again as you did for the bodice and stitch around the other armhole.

Press the stay stitching gently to press out any little puckers that might result.  Just use the tip of the iron along the stitching to make it nice and flat.

SKIRT/PANTS STAY STITCHING

Stay stitch the waist seam from the side (highest point) to the center.  I usually skip over the dart areas.  If the sides are very flared, stay stitch them from the hem (highest point when the skirt is held horizontal) to the waist.

That’s all there is to it.  It’s a simple and effective way to maintain the shape and fit of your pattern pieces.

 

 

Classic Style, New Pattern, Smocking

Two New Patterns

It’s been a while but I haven’t been idle.  I’ve been busy in the background.

I finally decided to ditch Adobe’s subscriptions!  I bought the Wild Ginger Cameo pattern drafting software and it’s amazing.  It’s such a nice feeling to own software again!  It’s so much better than Illustrator, from sloper to grading.  I also switched to Affinity by Canva for publishing my instruction booklet.  It’s a free program and includes the equivalent of Illustrator, Photoshop and Indesign all in one package.  Brilliant!  I like it much better than Indesign.  It has some really powerful features and is much easier to learn.

Now that I’ve learned all these new programs, I finished two patterns and I’m releasing them on Friday, September 4.

 

Introducing Susannah and Abigail!  Both are extended sizes of my Big Sister Pamela smocked yoke dress, but with additional features, and better sizing.  A smocked square yoke dress is such a classic, I don’t think it can ever go out of style.

I drafted the toddler and girl sizes separately to add different proportions.  The girl sizes have a more tailored fit through the bodice that the older girls prefer.  I also chose a tailored back belt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Both patterns offer two options for a neck finish: a bias binding or a Peter Pan collar.  It has short puffed sleeves which can be finished with smocking or a tailored cuff with piping.

 

 

 

 

Susannah is available in toddler sizes 18 Months to 3T.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Abigail is available in girl’s sizes 4-6.

 

Both patterns can be purchased here on the website or in my Etsy shop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Classic Style, Heirloom Sewing, New Pattern, Quick Projects

Infant Crossover Bubble- One for the boys!

 

Just in time for summer fun, here’s a version of my Infant Crossover Bubble that’s perfect for the beach.  This was made by another one of my tester, Yulia.  She used a light summery blue and white striped fabric that can keep baby cool and comfortable.  There are no sleeve seams and this provides a loose comfortable fit for babies.  It’s also easy to sew…no tiny armhole seams!  As you can see, we have a very happy model.

 

 

I love how she used a Dotted Swiss fabric and her piping is absolutely perfect.  The Dotted Swiss adds just enough texture and interest.

 

 

Here’s the back view.  No seams, again, providing total comfort.

 

Cool.

Comfortable.

Quick Easy Project.

You can see Yulia’s other lovely creations on her Instagrem @berriesandpetals.

Purchase the pattern here.

Or you can visit my Etsy Shop for the pattern along with fabrics and trims to complete your project.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Uncategorized

Crossover Bubble Variations- Part 1

 

Crossover Bubble Inspiration!

Sometimes, you just need a little bit of stitching.  When I designed my Crossover Bubble pattern, I wanted to add just a little bit of blank space that can be embellised in numerous ways.  I remembered that when my children were very young, there is little time for complicated projects, yet I wanted to still be creative.  Small projects were perfect, even if it just involved a glue gun.  For needleworkers, the assymetrical collar on this little bubble is the perfect blank canvas.  It can be filled with any embroidery technique, and the collar edge can be finished with trim, bridging, or piping.  It’s a quick stitch for busy young mamas.

Here is sweet little girl’s version of the Crossover Bubble.  The collar is edged in lace and embroidered to coordinate with the cheerful red gingham.  It’s and original embroidery design was made by Tiffany and it’s just adorable.

 

 

 

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The pattern can be purchased at my Etsy Shop and here at the website under Patterns.  My Etsy shop also has fabrics and laces that might inspire you to give this pattern a try.

New Pattern

A New Pattern! The Infant Crossover Bubble

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Infant Crossover Bubble is now available in my Etsy Shop and at my website. This is a larger version of my Preemie Crossover Bubble, sized for older babies and it comes in sizes Newborn to 12 Months. It features Kimono Sleeves, so there are no tiny armholes to stitch around. It also opens flat for easy diaper changes. There is an asymmetrical collar that can be embellished in a number of ways. Make it fancy with some heirloom lace and hand embroidery, or make it more casual with some piping. You can also leave the collar off and add some machine embroidery. It is fully lined and needs minimal hand stitching. You can really let your imagination go and be as creative as you can be.
I’ve wanted to offer a larger version of the preemie bubble for a while now, and it’s finally available.
You can find it here at the websited under Patterns.  You can also find it, along with fabric and trims, in my Etsy Shop.
The photo above features a more casual version, with some hand embroidery.  I copied the motif on the fabric using my camera and Illustrator to make an embroidery transfer.  The little duck is finished in a simple chain stitch.  A tutorial for that will be available in the near future.
Below, I used machine embroidery on Swiss Flannel.  The design is from Mommy’s Apron Strings and it’s available from her Etsy shop here.  She features vintage style designs and they match this vintage style bubble perfectly.  Her designs stitch out beautifully.
The bubble below has some heirloom lace and Swiss Embroideries.  I used the new 100% Organice Cotton Linen Batiste with some Lavender Pique.  The fabrics are available in my Etsy shop.  The Swiss Embroidery trim and lace was from my stash, but I carry other laces that would work as well.
The fabric can be purchased here and here.
I’ve used snaps on all my version, however, the pattern testers made some wonderful versions with buttons!  I’ll be featuring their creations so stay tuned.  Subscribe for updates and sign up for my newsletter to get all the latest news.
Uncategorized

A Sweet Baby Pamela

A customer recently shared a version of my Baby Pamela pattern.  Her name is Judy and she does amazing work.  She used to have an Etsy shop but now just takes some orders from her Facebook page here.  This dress is just sweet perfection and her workmanship is amazing.

 

She shared her method for finishing the inside of the bodice with a full lining.  This covers the smocking and the raw edge is finished with some heirloom lace.  It adds another special touch.

 

Below, you can see how she finished the side seams and included the lining.  This helps to keep it in place.  She also used Seams Great to finish the raw edge of the armhole.

 

Here’s a close up of her smocking.  The pleats are perfectly spaced and the piping is appied perfectly.

I love when customers share their projects with me.  Have you made a Little Heirloom Angels pattern that you would like to share?

Just send it to smockermom319@gmail.com and I’ll share it here!

Uncategorized

New Tutorial Posted

I just posted a tutorial on how to improve your smocking stitches.  It’s something I’ve been meaning to do for a while and I finally had the chance to take some super close up photos of a dress I’m working on.

 

This is a dress that I started for my daughter almost 30 years ago but she just grew up too fast.  I thought it would make a nice example of making nice flat stitches.

Read all about it here:

How to Improve your Smocking Stitches

I hope it helps!

Forever Classic, Heirloom Sewing, Quick Projects, Sewing Techniques, Uncategorized

New Fabrics Just Stocked!

Hi Everyone.  I just uploaded a lot of new fabrics to my Etsy Shop.  As always, I’m happy to send out free samples, just ask!  When you see these fabrics in person, they will spark your creativity.

www.littleheirloomangels.etsy.com

Satin Pique- Cream, Lavender, and Navy

 

 

 

 

 

100% Egyptian Cotton Superfine Twill, Spill Resistant

This would be perfect for children’s clothing.  It has a wonderful sheen and resists stains.  Navy, Red, White, and Lavender.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spechler Vogel Cotton Linen Batiste, 100% Organic Cotton. W, and Navyite, Cream, Lavender Fancies, Aqua Fancies, Pink, Baby Blue

 

Four new colors of Imperial Batiste

 

 

Perfect for spring!  Stop by and check them out.

 

 

 

Classic Style, Embroidery, Heirloom Sewing

The Mountmellick Stitch- New Tutorial

When my daughter asked me to make her son’s Baptism outfit, I decided to experiment with something new.  She didn’t want smocking and chose a shirt and shorts outfit with simple tucks and embroidery.  She also wanted linen which I was thrilled to hear!

I needed a “row” stitch, something that would look like a braid between the tucks, which of course were hemstitched.  I have a tutorial for that here and here.

I was drawn to the Mountmellick stitch and after experimenting I found that I could make it look like little arrowheads that could be mirror imaged between the tucks.

I made the stitch 1/8″ wide, 4 threads apart, with size 8 Perle cotton.  It’s simple and elegant.

Here’s the outfit:

 

Click here for the tutorial and have fun experimenting!

 

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Imperial Broadcloth- New Colors in Stock

With the colder weather coming, I just stocked my Etsy store with some new colors of Imperial Broadcloth:

I added Christmas Red, Kelly Green, and Navy.  Perfect for the upcoming holidays and back to school sewing.

There’s also the basics for baby available along with some Swiss Embroideries and French Heirloom Laces.  Patterns are also available under the Patterns Tab here and in the Etsy shop.

Click here to see the whole collection.

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