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NEW PATTERN! BABY ABIGAIL

My new pattern is now available for purchase here at my website and also in my Etsy shop.

Baby Abigail is the final version of the coming home outfit I made for my granddaughter, Abigail Ruth.  After many tweaks and trials, it is finally ready.

Baby Abigail is a short bishop top with long sleeves.  It features a contrast placket, as well as contrast details on the wrist, ankle, hem and neck.  The sleeves have an elastic cuff and there is also an option for a smocked sleeve.  If you prefer a folded placket, the pattern includes an option for that also.

The footed pants have an elastic waist for comfort.  There is elastic at the ankles to keep the foot in place since little ones always seem to pop their toes out of the foot piece of their sleepers.  The sole is also lined.  That means there are no exposed seam allowances or threads to cause problems with tiny toes.

It would make a cozy little outfit for the colder weather in a soft Swiss Flannel, such as in the model garment.  I used Liberty Tana Lawn for the contrast trim.  Batiste or broadcloth can also be used for warmer weather.  There are so many ways to make this little outfit: contrast pants, contrast trim only.  I’ll be posting some beautiful versions designed by the testers for inspiration.  They did a marvelous job as always!

 

 

 

 

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NEW PATTERN TESTER CALL- BABY ABIGAIL

 

The Baby Abigail pattern from Little Heirloom Angels is ready for testing! This is a traditional bishop style diaper shirt with footed pants, sized for Newborns to 12 Months.  It would be a  perfect coming home outfit for a baby boy or girl.  The bishop top is front opening with buttons or snaps for easier dressing. Several trim options for sleeves and hem are included with the pattern. The sole is lined on the inside, completely enclosing the seam allowance.  This means no stray threads to make baby uncomfortable!  Recommended fabrics are lightweight to midweight cottons and blends: Swiss flannel, broadcloth, chambray, pique.  Also suitable for knits or Cashmere Cotton.

 

 

 

You can add a contrast band to the ankle, or insert an internal elastic casing.

 

Options for the sleeve include a contrasting casing, or smocking!

I’ve also updated my method for attaching the bias neck band without stretching.  The secret is to use an old, trusty sewing notion: freezer paper!  I’ll also add a tutorial on the blog for anyone who’s purchase the original Baby Bishop pattern.

The testing will run until March 7, 2022 . I will notify all testers who apply by February 7, 2022.  Please follow the link to apply:

 

https://forms.gle/Q5D5UrjvFBb7ekeq9

Come join us, I look forward to working with you.  And if you are a new tester, welcome! I love meeting new stitchers.

Classic Style, Construction, Embroidery, Forever Classic, Heirloom Sewing, SAGA, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery

Variations on Big Sister Pamela Pattern

I wanted to share my granddaughter’s Christening Gown.

 

I made it using my Big Sister Pamela pattern.  Even though it is featured as a smocked yoke dress, it can be transformed into any basic yoke dress with a few tweaks.

I wanted to make an heirloom style gown without smocking.  It was inspired by a scrap of hand embroidery I had trimmed off of Carol’s First Communion Dress.  I had just enough to fit into a yoke so Big Sister Pamela fit the bill perfectly.  This was also my first project using Nelona.  What a delight it is to work with.  It’s just so gorgeous and easy to sew and press.

First, I traced off the Yoke pattern piece and the Blocking Guide for the smocking.  I overlapped the seam allowances across the front and traced off a whole bodice piece.  Now, I had a template for laying out my  heirloom laces.  I added the V shape in the center to feature more of the embroidered piece and add some visual interest.

 

The hardest part was mitering the entredeux into the V shape.  Next time, I will just draw a separate template for the shaped seam line and hand stitch the entredeux pieces together first.  I think it would be easier to manage.

Next, the sleeves were finished with lace insertion and the hemstitch on my sewing machine. Gathered lace and entredeux are used for the armband.

 

The next big decision was concerning the skirt treatment.  I knew Carol wouldn’t want a huge skirt, so I chose a 36″ width.  I also liked that the number is divisible by 3 for the Trinity.  Then I calculated the lengths I would need for the lace band and stitched the laces together.  The ruffle is double the width of the skirt with lace insertion and pintucks on each side, with lace edging along the bottom.  I added the V shape in the middle and added seam allowances for stitching to the entredeux.

 

I also wanted to embroider a cross for the skirt and coordinate it with the embroidery on the yoke.  I tried to shadow embroider the cross but it was too large and I couldn’t get it to look nice.  So, then I tried a chain stitch.  My dear friend Lori suggested silk floss and my goodness, it was lovely to work with.  Then I used some floche for the vines and I even found some of the same white silk ribbon that I used on the original dress!  Same patina to match the roses on the yoke.  Sometimes it pays to not throw things away! LOL.   A lace insertion oval and it was complete.

 

I’m pleased with how it turned out even though my heirloom sewing skills are a little rusty.  It took almost 2 months to complete, which includes all the mistakes and Plan Bs, but it was still fun.  I think I’ll submit it to Show and Share when I go to the SAGA convention next month.

 

Happy Stitching!

 

 

 

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What’s Coming for the New Year

So. We made it through 2020.  I wish health and happiness for everyone in the new year.

It’s a new year and I’m developing some new projects.  Updates to my Big Sister Pamela and Baby Bishop pattern are in the works.  I’m adding a long sleeve option that will be available as an add on for my previous customers.  I will also include it in the updated versions of the patterns.

I’m also drafting some footed pants that look wonderful with the Baby Bishop Diaper Shirt.  These will be a warmer alternative to the Diaper Cover during the winter months.  You can French seam the whole thing, even the foot pieces.  Or you can line them.  This addresses the issue of loose threads anywhere near tiny baby toes.  I remember when my girls were babies, people were cutting off the feet because of the danger of loose threads.  I’m tending toward the lining but it’s a personal decision.  I also placed the elastic casing on the outside.  Not only does it provide a contrasting design detail, it reduces irritation on delicate baby skin.

 

A Ruffled version of the Diaper Cover will also be coming in sizes Newborn to 18 or 24 Months.

 

I’m also working on a smocked knit cap for Preemies and Newborns.  It will have a turned up cuff that has a smocked panel on the front.  I have some Sea Isle Baby Knits that I’m dying to try with this one.  The prints will also be uploaded to my Etsy shop for purchase.

We just welcomed a new granddaughter to the family in November and a grandson is coming at the end of March.  Lots of baby sewing going on here and I’ll be busy.

Happy New Year Stitching!

 

 

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TESTER CALL- Preemie Crossover Bubble

The Preemie Crossover Bubble from Little Heirloom Angels is ready for testing! This is a traditional bubble style romper sized for Preemies up to 5 ½ lbs.  It also fits the Reborn dolls.  It would be a perfect coming home outfit for a baby boy or girl.  Included with the pattern are two different collar styles. The bubble is front opening with snaps for easy access diaper changes. The bubble crotch area opens flat for easier dressing. It is an easy project featuring kimono sleeves and a full lining. No tiny sleeves to set in!

Recommended fabrics are lightweight cottons and blends such as batiste, lawn, voile, or linen. 

The testing will run until October 10,2020 . I will notify all testers who apply by September 20,2020.  Please follow the link to apply:

https://forms.gle/RHx1t99awkdgiVZ47

 

 

Classic Style, Construction, Embroidery, Forever Classic, New Pattern, Quick Projects

Drawn Thread Motif

 

Hello everyone!  I’ve finally finished my tutorial for the Drawn Thread Motif.  I hope you find it helpful.  You can find it here.  It was inspired by a vintage dresser scarf that I found in an antique shop.  I love finding inspiration from vintage items.  I wrote about it here.

Check it out and give it a try.

And keep checking in for my tester call.  I’m almost ready to start the testing phase for my preemie bubble pattern, which features this motif on the collar, as well as other embellishment options.  If you are interested in testing the pattern, check back here or my Facebook page or my Instagram page.  The pattern will fit a preemie up to 5 1/2 lbs.  It’s also perfect for Reborn baby dolls.

Classic Style, Construction, Embroidery

New Tutorial Posted!

Hi Everyone,

I’ve posted a new 2 part tutorial on how I did my hemstitch tucks.

How To Make Hemstitch Tucks Part 1

How to Make Hemstitch Tucks Part 2

It’s a very simple stitch but it can leave a big impact on your garment.  It adds the perfect touch for boy garments when you can’t use lace and but still want to add a special touch as most moms and grandmas want to do.

I used it here on my grandson’s Baptism bubble since Dad insists on no lace.  Dads will be dads, but I still had to stitch a little piece of my heart into the outfit.  This worked perfectly.  Both mom and dad were happy.

I’ve also used some of these techniques on a drawn thread collar for a preemie boy outfit, which will be coming shortly.

Here is a preview:
Playing With Threads

Once the threads are pulled and tucks are basted, the actual hemstitching goes very quickly.  Give it a try and let me know how you like it!

 

Classic Style, Embroidery, New Pattern, Quick Projects

Playing With Threads

Wow, it’s been a while.  Time to catch up.

I’m currently working on a new preemie pattern for boys.  This one will be a little bubble.  No smocking, but it will have a little collar and I thought a touch of Drawn Thread Work would be a perfect little touch to add.  It’s always special when a mom or grandma can stitch a little bit of her heart into something so I started doing my research.

It started with a photo…but for some insane reason I didn’t save it! Now I only have my memory of a little square design that kind of looks like Reticella work.  Very vague and enough to haunt my thoughts until I could google as much as I could and ask my dear friend Lori, who’s done much more embroidery than I. She advised that Reticella and Hardanger might be too bulky for what I had in mind and advised me to stick with Drawn Thread.

I stumbled on Mary Corbet’s wonderful website and she had a link to the Antique Pattern Library.  What a rabbit hole that can be! But I disciplined myself and stuck to my research using the Drawn Thread book by DMC on the Antique Pattern Library website.  Here is the link:

http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/pub/PDF/DMCDrawn1.pdf

Have fun! But don’t forget to come back and read the rest of the post! Haha.  Then I went through my own library, but I only had some books on Pulled Thread and Ruskin Lace Work as well as an odd little book that illustrates all kinds of stitches for all of these open and counted thread types of embroidery.

Nothing popped out and said “Stitch Me Now”.  The line drawings were a little bland, and the old fashioned illustrations from the antique DMC really didn’t light a fire in by brain.

More searching, this time through Etsy and I was amazed to find this little gem!  And not a PDF, but the real book!  The listing said it is from the 1930s but there’s no copyright.

It’s the second part of the book at the Antique Pattern Library.  It’s a wonderful book but still no solutions popped out at me.

Then, I cleaned my sewing room!  Eureka!

I picked up a little shopping bag and my problem was solved.  Inside were two little doilies that I bought when I went to the craft show and antique show at the Schwenkfelder Museum with my dear friend Wanda.

What a wonderful day that was.  An entire antique and vintage fair that featured textiles and everything involving a needle.  They had all kinds of lovely antique sewing tools and linens that day and there in that bag was the perfect little design for my bubble.  It has the lacy open look of Reticella but is delicate enough for use on a lightweight linen or batiste.  And it’s not girly looking so Dad can relax haha.  It’s small in scale and can stitch up quickly.

 

 

I quickly cross referenced the books I was looking through and found the instructions I needed to execute the stitches.  The openwork square consists of wrapped bars and dove’s eye.  And the border is in my DMC book from Etsy!

Now to practice.  I have the itch to stitch.

 

Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, New Pattern, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Smocking

New Pattern!

Big Sister Pamela has been released and can be purchased here or at my Etsy shop.  I had a few requests to release the Baby Pamela dress in bigger sizes and I hope you enjoy making it.

 

 

The pattern includes sizes Newborn up to 9-12 Months and a simple smocking plate for new smockers.  It also includes my snap front diaper cover, which has been very popular.  It makes diaper changes so much easier!

 

A bias neckband is a quick technique and the sleeves ares smocked with baby waves for comfort and elasticity.

 

 

Perfect for spring time projects and Easter outfits.  Happy stitching!

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Baby Bishop Diaper Set

I’ve finally released my Baby Bishop Diaper Set pattern.

Whew.  It’s been a long and crooked road with this pattern.  It was my first draft after opening up this business.  I hand drafted it, then fired up my old Symmetry program on my Windows XP computer to transfer in the measurements and do a CAD drawing.  The trick was that the old Symmetry software (from the year 2000!!) did not convert patterns into a PDF format.  So I had to use an intermediate file format that could be transferred to a flashdrive and transferred to my new laptop running Inkscape.  At the time, my budget was tight and wasn’t ready to invest in Illustrator.  And I was just beginning to research modern pattern drafting techniques using these drawing programs.

Inkscape is free but very clunky with it’s functions.  I somehow managed to find a file type that could be imported into inkscape.  It was very labor intensive because the file wouldn’t import at scale….I somehow had a huge picture on my screen that had to be reduced.

Tiling patterns for printing was a challenge and involved lots of research on the internet.  Nothing is easy to find when it involves Inkscape.  But somehow, it got it done and I asked a friend to test it.  I used Word for the directions, which offered a whole other set of formatting challenges.

Making the changes recommended by my friend became a formatting nightmare.  I started to rethink my budget for Illustrator.

I invested in Lauren Dahl’s pattern drafting course thinking I could use it for Inkscape but as I watched the use friendly tools and functions in action I was hooked.  I bit the bullet and got the subscription.

Now I had to import the Inkscape file into Illustrator….NOT so easy to do!  Again, it didn’t import to scale and other aspects were lost.  I just decided it would be more accurate and easier to just re-draw the pattern with my original measurements and grade rules.

Then I decided to import all my directions into InDesign, because, of course!  I was also sold on the ease of formatting after watching Lauren whip up directions and place/crop/format pictures with a few clicks.  What a tedious task to break apart my Word document and copy and paste it into InDesign piece by piece.

In the meantime, I decided to do my doll pattern, then I had the request for Baby Pamela.  These two patterns gave me the opportunity to sharpen my Illustrator and InDesign skills.  The Baby Bishop is a much more complicated pattern, and I’m glad I got my practice in with my two previous patterns.  It is finally done!  Out of my head…and off my artboards lol.

I’ve had an amazing group of testers helping me make improvements and correct errors and I’d love to share their creations with you here.  They are just lovely.

I had two beginner smockers testing for me this time and I want to show off their creations first.  They were able to use my pattern and directions to make these beautiful little outfits for their little girls.  After seeing them, I know I accomplished my mission of helping new smockers get started!

Danielle made this outfit:

She did an amazing job for her fist smocked outfit.  I’m so proud of her.  I hope she enjoys many more days of smocking for her little one.  She will be a very well dressed little girl!

 

These are the back view and the sleeve finish.  Very Sweet.  Here’s a link to her page:

http://www.instagram.com/gooseberrymanor

Next is Amanda’s Gingham and Apple set.

She did an amazing job as well.  I’m very proud of her too!  And her little model is just adorable.  I love how she used the blue gingham to complement the red apples.  A very fresh and updated look.

 

This is a close up of her diaper cover…very nice stitching.  And also another picture of her little model, because she is just so adorable!

Her page is http://www.instagram.com/sewingcotton

Sylvia made this with an art gallery print and it’s just lovely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It’s so bright and cheerful.  She’s the owner of Delicate Stitches, a wonderful shop for all heirloom sewing and smocking supplies.  She’s been in business many years and she has a wonderful selection of laces, trims, fabrics, and threads.  http://www.delicatestitches.com

Mary made this sweet little fall outfit and her adorable daughter is modeling.  She’s such a sweetie and Mary did an amazing job.

 

 

I love the color combination and the plate she chose is just so pretty.

Her page is http://www.instagram.com/button_and_bee_

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These two outfits were made by Julie, owner of Lamond Traditional over on Etsy.com.  She’s been a long time smocker and also a very good friend.  Her website is http://www.lamondtraditional.etsy.com  She does beautiful work and has some very high quality outfits for sale.  Very classic style.

This adorable pink and green outfit was made by another Mary.  She spends most of her time with charity sewing and has a heart of gold.  I love how she lined the diaper cover in pink so that it shadows through.

And our last sample was made by Sandra.  A very sweet little floral with solid pink contrast.  A classic little girl outfit.

So that about wraps it up.  There is plenty of growth room designed into the pattern so you will get lots of wear before the child outgrows it.  Sturdy construction and smocking make it easy to care for also…machine wash and dry on low.  Smocking can handle it.  That was the main reason I loved it for school clothes.  Easy care.  I hope you will try it!