Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques

Out Of My Head And On The Baby

I’m a little late in posting this, certain life events came up and I just haven’t been up to posting.  I can’t believe it’s been since May when I was trying to work out a procedure for my grandson’s baptism outfit.

Well, it’s finally out of my head and on the baby!  Here he is, sitting on Grandpa’s lap.  I tried my hardest to get him to sit on the sofa alone, but he played surfboard and just wouldn’t have it.  He was only happy on Grandpa’s lap.

 

 

All of the mental gymnastics were worth it.  My daughter loved the outfit and she was very happy.  Sammy was comfortable and happy.  He didn’t even cry when the priest poured the water on his head.

Here are the details:

This is the embroidery in the center.  I made the hemstitched tucks on either side.  a tutorial will be coming to explain the steps.  I pinstitched the yoke by hand.

The fabric here is linen and the rest of the bubble is a fine shirting fabric with a herringbone pattern.

 

I made a peter pan collar with faggoting.

And here is the bubble with the cap:

It certainly is a satisfying feeling to finally get it out of my head!

 

Bishop Construction, New Pattern, Pleating, Smocking

New Pattern Test- Baby Bishop Diaper Set

 

 

 

 

My new pattern is all ready for testing.  It’s a little smocked bishop diaper set with a front closing.  There are options for a self folded over placket or a contrasting fabric placket.  The diaper cover has front snaps for easy changing.

An easy smocking plate is included with the pattern that requires basic knowledge of cable and trellis stitches.

The size range is newborn to 12 months.

Recommended fabrics are lightweight cottons and blends such as batiste, lawn, voile or linen.  Broadcloth can also be used as well as cotton interlock.  The diaper cover can be made from heavier fabric such as broadcloth, or chambray, or it can match the bishop top.

The testing will run from September 1-30, 2019 and I will notify all testers by September 1, 2019.

Here’s the link to apply:

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScYzA_RMSm2CW547RpUsiLPfVaDzp96-QC99jbeW8bYEo50iQ/viewform?usp=pp_url

Or go to my Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/littleheirloomangels if the above link doesn’t work.

Please join us!

Uncategorized

Getting It Out of My Head

I get an idea.  I put it on paper in a sketch. Then what?  How to make it real?

My creative process is a little convoluted and chaotic.  When will it become orderly? Probably never.

I wish I could just work out the details in my head and write them down step by step.  But that’s not how this works.

I take my sketch and apply changes to my pattern blocks.  That’s more ideas printed on paper.  The real challenge is coming.

How to take those pieces and put them together in an orderly fashion that another stitcher will understand.  How will it look on the inside? How will seams be finished?  Would this lining look good?  Is there a simpler way???

I might start with a block of fabric and do my embroidery.  Stitching on a block is much easier than cutting out a pattern piece first, then stitching.  All of those cut edges can stretch out of shape in the handling and then you have a useless pattern piece.

The challenge with stitching a block is how to insert it into the style in your head.  I usually end up hand stitching the embroidery to the respective pieces then cut out the outline of the pattern piece.  I end up wracking my brain for an easier way next time (another sample to stitch!!)  Why didn’t I think of that the first time? Well, I don’t know.  Everything is experimental and I always try to have a Plan B…or C…or Plan Walk Away lol.  Sometimes I’ve stitched 2 seams together then can’t do the next step in my head, so rip, rip, rip.  Sometimes I have to change a pattern pieces totally.

But, I love the challenge.  And the creative expression.  And I hope that someone else will understand the idea that I got out of my head and into a finished garment.

Embroider.

Cut.

Piece together.

Find a better way.

Classic Style, Construction, New Pattern, Smocking

My First Pattern Test- Baby Pamela

By | On April 27,19 | 0 Comment

A new pattern is published.  It’s a smocked yoke dress for preemies up to 5.5 lbs.  I drafted it as a special request from someone from the smocking and heirloom sewing groups.  She doesn’t care for smocking the bishop dresses that are so often made for preemies so she asked me to design a yoke dress as an alternative.  She was a tremendous help with ideas and advice.

Many babies are coming home from the hospital at around 5 lbs and newborn sizes are too big for these little angels.  My own grandson was born at 6 lbs. and even the preemie size patterns I had were too big for him.  There’s a difference between growing room and being way too big.  I hope this pattern can provide a quick solution to this situation and provide a better fitting garment for the celebration of baby’s first day home.  There’s a little bit of smocking that can be stitched quickly and the instructions include easy construction methods.  I designed a simple bound neckline to avoid the extra bulk of a peter pan collar that might irritate little chins.  There are also 2 options for the back, a button down or a bound placket.  Sleeves can be smocked or gathered and bound.

The instructions include lots of photos and clear, detailed construction directions which makes this little dress a perfect project for someone who wants to try smocking.  There is a simple smocking design included in the pattern.  I didn’t include a stitch dictionary because they can easily be found on the internet.   One of them is linked at the bottom of this post.  I offer all the tips and techniques that I’ve developed over the years for sewing on pleated fabric and lots of construction advice.  It’s quick, with a simple design that will give elegant results.

I was lucky to have several talented stitchers to test out the pattern and help iron out the wrinkles, so to speak.  Their projects came out beautifully and are just darling.  Their encouragement is so important and I’m so grateful to have met them.  It was such an enriching experience.

This dress was made by Mary Beth Bolt @ButtonandBeeCreative on Instagram.  Her dress is just darling and so classic.

She did a great job.  Check out her Instagram page at the link above to see her other wonderful creations.  Cute little outfits and beautiful stitching.  She’s a great source for inspiration.

This yellow dress was made by Kaitlyn @kait_isabel on Instagram.

I love the cheerful yellow print she chose.  Perfect for a little girl.  She did a great job also, I just love the touch of embroidery she added.  Check out her Instagram page at the link above and also her shop at www.oldschoolstitches.com.au.  She has a wide selection of heirloom patterns, smocking plates, and other supplies.

I even had a first time smocker testing for me!  She was really able to give invaluable reactions from someone who is totally new to the art.  Here is her sample and she did an amazing job for a first timer!  She hand pleated then followed a few stitch tutorials from my friend at Pink Hollybush Designs and she was off and running.  She’s got the smocking bug now and wants to test more projects.  This warms my heart  because I have a passion for passing on this art to future generations.  I don’t want it to be lost to posterity.

I want to thank everyone that participated.  You were all great to work with and I hope to work with you in the future.

I hope the pattern brings joy to parents as they bring their tiny angels home.  The NICU can be very stressful and when baby finally graduates and is able to leave the hospital, she can say hello to the world in style.

Don’t worry though, I haven’t forgotten about the boys! A Preemie outfit for them is in the works.  Stay tuned and sign up for the newsletter for updates.

 

Bishop Construction, Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques

New Feature- Tutorials!

I’m finishing up my first pattern testing and it has been an amazing experience.  I’ve gotten some valuable feedback and I had the opportunity to work with some talented testers.  Thank you all for joining!  I’ll be posting the photos very soon, after I’ve finished all the revisions to the pattern.

One of the best suggestions I received was to post tutorials on the blog here for beginners who might not be familiar with heirloom sewing techniques.  I thought it was a great idea.  Thank you Pam!  I have a Tutorials page now with a link at the top of the Home page.

My first tutorial shows how to make piping for heirloom garments.  Click here.  It’s a basic feature for smocked dresses and classic children’s clothing.   It supports the smocking on yoke dresses and inserts.  It can be used as trim on a cuff, or around a peter pan collar.  But’s it’s also a lesson that isn’t taught in most basic sewing classes.  It’s simple, doesn’t cost a lot of money and adds such an elegant touch.

In the next few weeks, I’ll be posting other tutorials on topics such as an easy way to make a continuous bound placket and binding a neckline.  More topics will be posted as I cover different techniques in future patterns.

 

I hope you enjoy them!

Uncategorized

My New Sewing Buddy

Sewing Buddy

 

My new mannequin.  He’s just right.

I would like to introduce new sewing buddy. He’s the perfect size to use from drafting patterns.  He follows the ASTM standards very nicely.  Previously, I purchased 2 mannequins from Amazon and the measurements are all over the place.  One is supposed to be a 3 month size but measures closer to a newborn in some spots.  The other is supposed to be a 6 month size and measures closer to a 12 month size.  They aren’t accurate enough for drafting, but I will use them for photographs.

I found out about this guy in the picture on a Facebook post in a pattern drafting group, I can’t recall which one.  He’s from the Shop Company and they are a great company to work with, great customer service and fast delivery.  He’s a little pricey, but I saved up my cash.  I think he will be an invaluable assistant that will help me draft better patterns.

I’m so excited to have this new addition to my sewing room.

Now that my Preemie Smocked Yoke Dress is going into the testing phase, I can go back to working on some infant styles.  My new sewing buddy will be right by my side to help out.

If you would like to participate in the testing for my preemie pattern, please join my Facebook Group, Smocking and Heirloom Sewing Pattern Testers.  Of course, if you are not ready to learn smocking, you can just make the dress with a gathered skirt.  Watch for the testing call!

Bridal Heirlooms, Classic Style, Forever Classic, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Smocking, Uncategorized

Smocked Bridal Purse- Construction and Attaching the Frame

By | On November 27,18 | 0 Comment

I’m back!  Wedding is done, and new grandson has been sufficiently cuddled for now. As promised, I’m going to explain the remaining steps for the Smocked Bridal purse I made.

To refresh your memory, I talk about the previous steps here and here.  I’ve been tinkering with this project for a while and I’m pleased with the outcome, however, I have some tweaking to do for the next one I make.  I used the Upstyle pattern from Esty, found here.  Their frames are very high quality and the pattern is easy to make.  However, I don’t care for the loose sides that will fold in unevenly, making the frame look off-center, as in the photo above.  That’s a tweak for another day.

In my second post about the purse, I described using a stay to stabilize the pleats and support the embroidery.  It was much easier to do the silk ribbon embroidery this way because all of the ribbons and floss were actually secured to the back of the stay instead of the pleats.  Also, the pleats didn’t shift around.  They stayed in position which made consistent stitches much easier to make.

 

Silk Ribbon Embroidered Smocking

 

I blocked the smocking to the size of the frame and then steamed the pleats.  When the smocking was dry and cool, I secured the stay to the top of the smocking.  I stitched 3/8″ from the top cable row, then I trimmed the top to 1/2″ from the cable row to the cut edge.

 

 

Next, I needed to control the fullness of the gathers along the bottom of the pattern piece.  The original pattern instructions place the pattern piece on the fold of the fabric, but there is also an option for one way designs and I used that.  Add 1/2″ seam allowance along the bottom of the pattern piece and cut two.  I measured the distance from the top of the pattern piece and marked the same distance from the top of my smocked piece.  Then I stitched 3 rows of gathering stitches and distributed the gathers until I was satisfied.

 

 

The gathers were stitched to the stay along the bottom seam.

 

 

Then the stay is attached at the sides along the seam line.  I also stitched around the cutting line to control the gathers in the seam allowance.  Then I trimmed just outside the cutting line stitching.

 

 

 

I stitched the back of the purse to the front along the bottom seam.

 

 

I pressed the seam open.  Here you can see where all the embroidery threads have been secured to the stay instead of the pleats.

 

 

Here is the fusible fleece being attached to the wrong side of the purse.  I only fused the fleece to the back of the purse and to the back of the smocking.  I DID NOT fuse the bottom gathers or the area of the silk ribbon embroidery.  I didn’t want to crush the embroidery through the fusing process and I didn’t want to crease the gathers.  I did fuse along the sides where the fabric is flat.

 

 

Here is the purse all assembled.  The lining is interfaced and there is also a Peltex inner structure.  I forgot to take pictures of the frame being attached, but the instructions included in the pattern are very good.  I was skeptical about a glued frame but it seemed to be very solid.  I was pleasantly shocked.

 

 

I think the smocking adapted to this pattern very well.  I have to work out a better design for the sides so I think I’ll dig out my mother in law’s vintage bags and do some research.

 

 

I also forgot to take a final picture in good light.  The lighting in the church wasn’t very good, but I think it’s a pretty picture anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bridal Heirlooms, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques, Uncategorized

Bridal Party Shirts!

I’m back from a little hiatus and I just wanted to share the shirts that Esther Conrad Grant embroidered for my daughter’s wedding!  She is the owner of Tiger Swallow Tales Children’s Boutique and she also has a stunning dress in the latest issue of Classic Sewing Magazine that you must read about.

Here is the link to her shop on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/tigerswallowtales/

She also has a fantastic blog that you should check out: http://www.tigerswallowtales.com/

My daughter, Rose, found a picture on Pinterest using monogrammed flannel shirts for the bridal party and she had her heart set on doing a similar picture for her wedding.  The wedding is in November and she wanted something a little cozier than little robes for the bridal party.  The picture she wants to use shows the bridal party lined up with their backs to the camera, wearing monogrammed flannel shirts.  Esther was wonderful and she went above and beyond to make Rose’s dream come true.  Esther found the perfect font, in the perfect size and created these beautiful shirts that the bridesmaids can wear when they do their hair and makeup.  She has such an amazing talent and Rose will be ecstatic when she sees them! ❤️❤️❤️  

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party Shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party Shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party Shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party Shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

The shirts are stunning thanks to Esther’s meticulous attention to detail.  I just can’t thank her enough!  I also want to thank her for kindly allowing me to post her pictures from her Facebook page.

I’ve been away a little too long and I will be posting more soon.  I have updates from convention and a SAGA meet up at Kent State to share, along with my entry from the Design Show.  I was working on that, then my grandson decided to come 3 weeks early and totally threw off my sewing schedule! I thought I would have a whole month after convention to make him a coming home outfit, but he clearly had different plans!  Now things have settled down and I can get back to my Bridal purse and my Baby Bishop pattern not to mention my next pleating lesson.

It’s been hectic!

Here is the original post with the shirts on Esther’s Facebook page:

Warm November Wedding by Tiger Swallow Tales

Bishop Construction, Construction, Pleating, SAGA, Smocking, Uncategorized

More Pleating Part 3

The next challenge in my pleating adventures is to tackle a method of bishop pleating that requires the pieces to be pleated before stitching the underarm seams.  I like to call it the Release and Rethread method.  It takes longer and requires a lot of concentration but it is a no fail method to totally hide seams.  Your bishop dress will appear totally seamless and smooth.  No ugly bumps that are created when the seams are caught up in the pleat during the typical pleating method.

The first step is to carefully lay your pieces in order.  Pleaters vary in the way the needles pierce the fabric in the rollers.  Some pleat with the longer stitches on top and other pleat with the longer stitches on bottom.  “Long is wrong” is the cardinal rule for pleating so it’s important that you understand how your pleater works.  The dress pieces should be laid out according to how your pleater pleats: right side up or wrong side up.

Pleat the first piece and clear it from the needles and unthread them.  With the right side of the fabric facing you, remove the threads and pull them out of the seam allowances, usually 1/2″ on each side of the pattern piece.  Make sure the pleating threads are coming out of the right side of the fabric.  You want to make sure your seam allowances will be falling to the wrong side of the garment.

Next, start pleating the sleeve, making sure the you have the correct sleeve piece.  For a back opening bishop, you will need the back of the sleeve to go through first so that it matches the back armhole of the first pleated piece.  The opposite would apply for a front opening bishop.  In that case, you have pleated one front already and need the front sleeve seam to go through the pleater first to match up with the front of the dress.  When the pleats start to build up on the needles, CAREFULLY pull off the seam allowance and flip it either up or down.  If you are pleating right side up, flip the seam allowance down.  If you are pleating wrong side up, flip it UP.  Be careful to have all your seam allowances on the wrong side of the dress.

 

Clearing the seam allowance from the pleater needles

 

Now that the seam allowance is free, carefully rethread the pleater with the same threads that are coming out of the first pleated piece.

 

Rethreading the needles for bumpless bishops

 

Make sure the pieces are all facing the same way and the pleating threads don’t get crossed as you rethread.  Continue pleating the sleeve and pull it completely off the needles just like you did for the first piece.  Clear the threads from the seam allowance, making sure the seam allowance will fall to the wrong side and continue the steps until the whole bishop has been pleated.

  1. Pleat
  2. Remove threads and clear seam allowance
  3. Pleat
  4. Pull seam allowance off needles and rethread
  5. Go to step 1 and repeat

When you are finished you should have no crossed threads, all the seam allowances on the wrong side and all the pieces in the proper order.

 

Bishop pleating without stitching the seams

 

Now it’s time to sew.  Basting is a crucial first step to sewing up the seam and making sure the pleating threads stay aligned.  Fold the seam so that the right sides are together and hand baste.  What I did to insure perfect alignment is to use the same needle holes of the pleating threads. I didn’t get a picture of just the basting but you can see it in the next steps.  Come up through the same holes in one row, go down through the same holes in the next row.  Then you machine stitch 1/16 of and inch from that basting line to form your valley.

 

Creating a valley for the bumpless bishop

 

 

 

I think you can see the basting line best in this picture.  Right where the pleating threads end, you can see a basting stitch between the two rows in white thread.

There are several options to finish the seams.  You can serge them, but if you are making an heirloom style garment you probably want to use on of the other methods.

Here I’ve done a Faux French seam by turning under the raw edges and stitching along the fold.

 

Faux French Seam

 

Here I’ve done a simple overcast edge.  The stitches are very tiny and hard to see but I think you can get the general idea.

 

Overcast Stitch on Pleated Seam

 

I’ve never worked with this method before but now that I’ve tried it, I plan to use it more often.  It’s definitely less stressful than pleating French seams and holding your breath as they go through the rollers.  You just have to concentrate and remember all the steps in order.  And even if you forget, you only have to go back and repleat one piece, not the whole dress! I call that a win right there.

My next lesson is double pleating.  As my daughter’s got older I had to figure out that technique all by myself.  This was almost 30 years ago and limited resources were available!  I  muddled through and got the dresses made but now maybe I can learn a few new tricks to make it easier!  Stay tuned.

Bishop Construction, Construction, Pleating, Smocking

More Pleating Homework- Part 2

By | On August 14,18 | 0 Comment

The next chapter in my adventures with the pleating course concentrated on pleating seams for bishop style dresses.  This has become a concern lately because so many of us have pleaters that are no longer manufactured and therefore, the original needles are no longer available.  There are generic needles on the market but they bend and break at the slightest turn of the crank.  Plus they are very expensive!  My solution is try to bend the pleating rules (better than the needles!) a bit and think of a new plan.  In the previous post on this topic, read here, I described how to get a VERY tiny french seam.  Now to talk about getting that little seam through those rollers.

First, I rolled the fabric on the dowel, keeping each seam parallel to the dowel.

 

 

Next, I made sure the fabric was started through the rollers on grain.  My method is to turn the crank until there is a tiny opening between the teeth of the rollers.  Then I hold the fabric edge at the top and bottom of the pleating area and slide it into the rollers, keeping the  inserted edge taut.  I wiggle it in until I see that the grain is parallel to the rollers.  Then, with my left hand I spread my fingers and hold the fabric against the bottom roller to make sure it doesn’t slip out of place as I turn the crank.  If your opening is small enough, you should only have to turn it a little bit before the teeth grab the fabric and it is secure.  Make sure everything is on grain and start pleating.

Pleat slowly and stay on grain.  You might have to make small adjustments on each side of the fabric as it goes through the rollers and pull the pleats off the needles often.  Just turn one crank at a time, tug and pull as necessary to keep the grain parallel.   As the seam comes off the dowel and approaches the rollers it must be parallel or you will hear that dreaded crunch!

 

 

Push the seam into a groove on the top roller just before it goes through the pleater with a screwdriver.

 

 

If you work slowly, have patience, and stay on grain, the seams should come out of the pleater free from the pleater threads.  Your bishop will be bump free from the right side and the smocking will be continuous and GORGEOUS!

 

Mini French Seam

 

In Part 3 I will talk about pleating before seaming – what I like to call the release and re-thread method.  It is suitable for heavier fabrics and it guarantees no needle breaks!  It takes more time but in the end you will have a beautiful no bump bishop to show off all your beautiful smocking!

 

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