Step 1

Pull 2 threads at right angles to mark the cutting line of your piece.  This makes sure that your piece is on grain.  Trim away excess fabric along these drawn thread spaces.  Refer to Line A.

 

Step 2

A hemstitched hem includes the width of the hem plus an amount for turning the raw edge under.  Here,  I am doing the collar on my new pattern coming out soon, the Preemie Crossover Bubble.  It is a triangular shape so I can just lay the pattern piece over the hemmed fabric and line up the finished edge with the seam line.

The next thread you will pull is to mark the turn under.  This will be the part of the hem that is hemstitched to the fabric.  For my collar that is 1/4″ from the first drawn thread.  See Line B in the photo above.

Step 3

Next pull another thread to mark the bottom of the hem, for my piece that is another 1/4″ in from the previous drawn thread.  This is the part of the hem that is the finished edge, or outer edge.  For my piece it will be the edge that is lined up against the seam line of my pattern piece.  See Line C in the photo above.

Step 4

At the corners, the pulled threads will form a grid.  Trim the corner diagonally as shown in the photo.

 

Step 5

Turn up the diagonal edge about 1/8″.  You will notice that the folded edge is at the intersection of the finished hem edge, Line C.  This is your corner.

Step 6

Fold in the hem along the sides over the diagonal fold.  Use pins to hold it in place for pressing.  Adjust the folds to make a nice corner and to make sure the miter lays side by side.  Close up the miter with a slip stitch or a ladder stitch.

 

 

 

Now you are ready for the hemstitching.  Turn the piece to the right side.  About 2″ in from the corner, lift up a thread along the top of the hem allowance.  Clip the thread and carefully pull it out, working back to the corner and stop.  Do the same for the other side of the piece.  Make sure the thread you are pulling out is the same distance from the finished edge on all sides.  Clip the pulled threads at the corner.

 

Work around the rest of the piece.  Do not pull the threads past the corners.  This will be your guideline for the hemstitching.